First, a bit of background...
Where the ocean presses against the land, the monotonous terrain of Australia's interior yields to life. Nowhere is this transformation more dramatic than around the Southern Cape of Western Australia where boundless desert and scrub briefly give way to eucalyptus trees, pasture and people.

The Cullens were not the only family to recognise the advantages of Margaret River for grape growing, though they are part of a small vanguard of producers that includes Leeuwin and Howard Park who finally realised the region's extraordinary potential for premium wine production. All these estates benefit from the very localised acceleration of maritime air as it lifts off the sea. What distinguishes these properties from each other however, is the very individual approach each has adopted towards viticulture and winemaking.

Vanya Cullen's work begins in the vineyard: rocky, acidic, unirrigated soils, cultivated organically. Everything conspires against the vines' fertility. Twenty-five hectolitres per hectare is not unusual at harvest, a figure that compares favourably with many Cru Classes Bordeaux properties who regularly plunder double this volume from their own vineyards.

Once in the winery, Vanya is a very empirical winemaker. There are no hard and fast rules regarding the duration of maceration and ferments, or the number of rackings. In common with other celebrated vignerons like Paul Draper and Gerard Chave, Vanya has developed an acute sensory understanding of the winemaking process. From grape to bottle, the high concentration of perishable aromatic compounds is a constant reminder of Vanya's delicate touch. Everything is decided by taste, and from this appreciation the whole Cullen style flows.

In 1997 Langtons, Sotheby's Australian outpost, awarded its first ever perfect 100 point score to Cu lien CabernetiMerlot 1995. The accolade that Grange and Hill of Grace failed to achieve in decades was awarded to Vanya in only her second vintage. The profile of the estate was immediately raised, and the Cullens became swamped by collectors looking to add to their cellars. Vanya's response was admirable. She rang us up and confirmed prices and allocations up to 2005. What French producer would ever do the same? Vive Ia difference!