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Spain
Overview Surprising fact:
Spain has a greater area under vine than any other country. But because the
yields from these vineyards are generally low, it only ranks third in the list
of wine producers. In the north west, the cool damp region of Galicia produces
some stunningly aromatic whites from the Albariño grape, and Rueda is
beginning to produce tasty, modern whites from Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc.
Otherwise, Spain is largely known for its red wines. Rioja, with its
attractive, sweetly fruited reds (aged in American oak), is probably the most
famous region, but not the best. This accolade is currently being fought over
by Ribera del Duero (rich Tempranillo-based reds) and Priorato (dense wines
from low yielding Grenache and Carignan planted on steep terraces). Other
regions that deserve a mention are Navarra (easy drinking rosé and full
flavoured reds), Penedès (the home of Cava), Somontano (modern varietal
wines from the foothills of the Pyrenees), Jumilla (chunky
Mourvèdre-based reds) and La Mancha (the vast central plain that
produces largely plonk). Spain is also known for its stunningly unique and
undervalued fortified wines from the southern town of Jerez: the sherries.
Costres del Segre Small wine
region in Catalonia, northern Spain, dominated by the modern Raïmat
winery, which produces a third of the classified wines made here.
Jerez This region in the hot south-western
corner of Spain is where sherry comes from. Sherry comes in a fascinating and
slightly bewildering range of styles, all of which are fortified: manzanillas
and finos are light, fresh, salty and tangy; amontillados are light brown,
nutty and dry; olorosos are deeper brown, fragrant and nutty; and other styles
such as pale cream and Pedro Ximénez are sweeter. Because sherry is
staggeringly unfashionable, its usually a bargain for the quality that is on
offer.
Jumilla Southern Spanish
wine region producing beefy, dark red wines from the Monastrell (aka
Mourvèdre) grape. Most of these have traditionally been unrefined and
alcoholic, but increasingly better examples are now being made.
La Mancha La Mancha comprises a huge expanse of
vineyards in the hot central plains of Spain, covering almost 200 000 hectares.
The climate here is pretty extreme, with baking hot summers and freezing
winters. Key grape is the neutral white Airen, although there's also quite a
bit of the red Cencibel (aka Tempranillo). A lot of the grapes are used to
produce brandy, and the rest make rather uninspiring (but thanks to
technological advances, largely correct) wines.
Navarra Next door to Rioja in north-eastern
Spain, Navarra produces mainly red and rosé wines. The Grenache grape is
king here, although recent plantings have seen the use of Tempranillo increase.
Although these wines used to be fairly nondescript, quality has improved
dramatically over the last couple of decades and Navarra is now a source of
good value, well made wines.
Penedès The main wine region in the
Catalan region of northern Spain, and the heartland of Cava (sparkling wine)
production. 80% of the grapes are grown here are white. Of the table wines made
here, those from the modernizing firm of Torres are the best known.
Priorato Super-trendy,
mountainous region of Catalonia in northern Spain, where ambitious producers
are now making dense, complex, terroir-driven red wines from low-yielding
Garnacha (Grenache) and Carineña (Carignan).
Rías Baixas The key wine region in
Galicia, in the northwestern corner of Spain. The climate here is damp and
cool, ideal for producing the delicious, crisp, aromatic whites from the
Albariño grape for which this region is famous. These wines are not
cheap, but the best examples are stunningly fragrant.
Ribera del Duero On the banks of the Duero (aka
Douro) river in north-west Spain, this is probably Spain's best red wine
region, making full flavoured, complex reds mainly from the Tempranillo grape.
Along with international recognition, prices have risen substantially. Spain's
most celebrated and aristocratic wine, Vega Sicilia Unico, comes from here. The
secret of this region's success lies in the soil and also the altitude:
although summer daytime temperatures are pretty hot, they dip sharply at night,
helping to produce concentrated but balanced wines.
Rioja Possibly Spain's most famous wine region,
producing mainly red wines predominantly from the Tempranillo grape. It is
split into three sub regions: Rioja Alavesa is the most northerly bit, Rioja
Alta is to the west, and Rioja Baga is to the south, although the wines tend to
be blended from all three regions. Winemaking here has been dominated by large
companies, and is characterized by extended ageing in American oak barrels.
This typically produces lighter coloured red wines with pronounced vanilla and
coconut aromas. The problem is, though, that many wines haven't had sufficient
fruit intensity to withstand this sort of treatment. There's been a recent
revival that has seen many producers starting to make their own wine, and a
corresponding swing away from extended oak ageing to producer darker, fuller
wines. This can only be good for quality. White Rioja, mainly from the Viura
grape, can be interesting, but commonly isn't.
Rueda Region in the northwest of Spain gaining
recognition for its fresh, characterful white wines made from the Verdejo and
Sauvignon Blanc grape varieties.
Somontano Northern Spanish wine region in the
foothills of the Pyrenees, gaining a reputation for its modern, characterful
varietal wines from producers such as Enate and Viñas del Vero.
Toro Promising Spanish wine
region on the Duero river (next door to the happening Ribera del Duero), making
progress with increasingly classy reds from the Tinto de Toro (aka Tempranillo)
grape variety. |
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