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A Tale of Two Arneis

Posted by Andrew Barrow, 1:22pm 26/07/2007. Leave a comment

Oh, how we love you so! That ancient variety grown around Alba in Piemonte, Italy, has been rescued from extinction but still remains relatively unknown and obscure.

In the regional dialect '' translates as 'little rascal' a reference to the difficulty found by producers in growing the vine.

While there is a smattering of producers using this white grape variety to soften tannins in the local red wines it is as a single varietal white wine that shines.

We tasted an American version in the office yesterday - the Seghesio Arneis 2006. And what a beaut! This is really my style of wine - full and rich with an abundance of pear and nut flavours, a long, long length and a spectacular burst of acidity on the finish that keeps everything in balance. There is a delicious creamy character to the palate and maybe just a touch of sweetness.

It made for wonderful drinking unaccompanied by food but I couldn't help thinking that a little salmon, some fresh sushi or a creamy chicken risotto would all make for a perfect match.

Surf4Wine also stocks an Italian version of the Deltetto Roero Arneis, S. Michele, 2005.

Which is markedly different in style. While still showing those luscious pear and peach flavours there is herbaceous edge to the flavour, while the mineral quality is more evident too. It is drier but equally full and packed with flavour.

The wines herbaceous quality makes it more suitable for matching with green salads - a feta salad with peas perhaps - and would marry superbly with a lightly grilled fish too.

Seghesio Arneis 2006 £15.79
Deltetto Roero Arneis 'S.Michele', 2005 £10.99

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