The Wines of Paul Jaboulet

Posted by Andrew Barrow, 3:45pm 18/09/2007. Leave a comment

An intimate dinner for 12 in the private dinning room of Chez Bruce in London, saw me being entertained by Paul Jaboulet last week.

It has been an age since I sampled the Jaboulet range, longer than I care to remember actually! The photograph was taken several years ago on the Hermitage Hill in the Rhone during a road trip with my old pal Matt though the Languedoc and up the Rhone back in… god knows.. years ago. But that was about the last time I had exposure to the range.

I can’t say I really took to the Aperitif. The 2006 Le Petit Jaboulet Viognier is the first year at Vin de Pays status (previously Vin de Table) and while everyone at the dinner was bemoaning the oiliness of Viognier in general and the rampant peachy-honeysuckle aromas, that is actually what I find so delicious in the grape. These qualities were lacking in the Jaboulet version, it being very minerally. The grapes were sourced from the Ventoux region.

First course of Roast Cod with Olive Oil Mash, Wild Mushroom Ragoût and Mussels was served with the Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Blanc “Mule Blanche” 2004 and Condrieu “Les Cassines” 2005.

The Condrieu was ‘divine’ to coin a phrase of a very good friend of mine and a wonderful match to the dish. The Crozes Hermitage has had quite a bit of oak influence – fermentation in oak, a little batonage and a rest on the lees for 6-9 months. A fine wine in its own right (there has been a surge in demand for quality white Rhone and Crozes Hermitage specifically recently) but I found the oak clashed a little with the flavours of the food.

No such worries for the delicious Condrieu though! Perfectly balanced and exhibiting the freshness that the estate is aiming for, according to my host.

Next out of the kitchens was Rump and Confit Shoulder of Lamb with Pissaladière, Roast Cherry Tomatoes and meat juices served with three wines: Côte Rôtie Les Jumelles 2004, Crozes Hermitage Rouge “Les Jalets” 2005 and Crozes Hermitage Rouge “Domaine Thalabert” 2004. Two Crozes Hermitage and both totally different wines.

The Les Jalets, by the number of refills around the table, was a triumph; a textbook Crozes Hermitage. An absolute steal in my book with balance, weight and cool climate Syrah fruit in perfect food-friendly stance. The Les Jalets vineyard covers just 6 hectares with 25-25 year old vines.

The Thalabert vineyard has been in the Jaboulet family since 1834 and is the oldest vineyard in the Crozes appellation. Large in comparison to Les Jalets with 40 hecatres and older vines too at 40-60 years old. It is still a little young, and certainly worth stashing a few bottles away for a while. It is concentrated, full-bodied with a lovely perfume and ripe palate that has, according to Paul Jaboulet, has opened out beautifully over the last few months.

The cheese course saw the table in raptures over the La Petite Chapelle Hermitage 2004. “Gorgeous” and “Dangerously seductive” were just two quotes I over-heard from around the table. Grown on the famous Hermitage hill the vines are distinct from the La Chapelle blend. Concentration, lovely structure and ripe bramble fruits. About as good as you can get, apart from the full La Chapelle Hermitage 2004 of course, but then it is under half its siblings price!

Sadly the cry of the last train home meant I had to miss the Orange and Saffron Panna Cotta with Bitter Orange Compote but not before a quick slurp of the Jaboulet Muscat des Beaumes-de-Venise 2005 passed my lips. Whether I had just had my fill of red wines this beautiful stickie offered a layer of complexity that made me jolt. I’m not a great fan of Panna Cotta anyway but at least I had the remnants of the Muscat’s flavour in my mouth as I dashed around Clapham Station.

Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Blanc “Mule Blanche” 2004 £12.95
Condrieu “Les Cassines” 2005 £22.95
Côte Rôtie Les Jumelles 2004 £26.95
Crozes Hermitage Rouge “Les Jalets” 2005 £10.95
Crozes Hermitage Rouge “Domaine Thalabert” 2004 £14.95
La Petite Chapelle Hermitage 2004 £29.95
La Chapelle Hermitage 2004 £69.95
Jaboulet Muscat des Beaumes-de-Venise 2005 £8.95

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