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Local pub, or Michelin stars? Either way, one Goose has been cooked

Posted by Andrew Chapman, 1:00pm 10/02/2010. Leave a comment

Ryan Simpson and team at Goose at Britwell Salome, courtesy of The Times online
I've been following this story because the pub in question's quite near to where I live, and I've enjoyed a couple of really good meals there. Long story short: village pub gets Michelin star, loses it. Village pub regains Michelin star under new chef, chef then walks taking most of kitchen and waiting staff with him when owner apparently asks him to make food 'that locals would enjoy', like burger and chips. According to one newspaper, the owner was keen not to disparage the locals' tastebuds, but said the chef hadn't quite got the measure of their palates. It's the eternal quandary isn't it? Quantity or quality?

It's the same in the wine trade. Everyone knows wine snobs who insist on telling everyone around them - usually quite loudly - that what they like are the 'right' wines and everyone else is a pleb. Other wine merchants have told me about people who buy wine they don't like, just because it's expensive or is the 'in' thing to drink - purely to impress people. What's the point?! Here at Surf4Wine we've got your expensive wines, sure. But we've also got some wonderful wines under a tenner. I'd never tell my customers what they should be drinking - or paying.

Coming back to the Goose at Britwell Salome, I think the point is that it's one of only two Michelin-starred pubs in Oxfordshire (the other's the Nut Tree in Murcott). It's choice, surely? I can go to the nearest chain restaurant or choose a gastro pub, my village local with bangers and mash or find a Michelin-starred establishment. There's something for everyone.

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